RE: Truck camer to TT, why no generators?
I think that most manufacturers don't offer them for a host of reasons...
1) TT, as a group, tend to use hookups. A boondocking subset doesn't generate enough interest to engineer the bays and gas tanks in order to have the "built in".
2) Connected with #1, in order to engineer the fuel storage tanks into the TT would require additional structural support in order to protect the tank and insure proper venting of fumes. One of the leading reasons you see those propane tanks sitting out on the TT tongue and gas detectors inside.
3) Basic design of the TT. Most of the smaller units don't have the room to install a generator, fuel tanks and still have room for storage of all the goodies we like to drag around with us.
4) In the larger units, you'll find sleeping quarters at both ends (bunk house style). Somebody would have to sleep / rest / relax on top of the thing.
Engineering and demand... Not enough demand to support the engineering. It could be done, but, I wouldn't want a unit under my bed nor the gasoline, fumes and exhaust in the the box I'm living in. As long as CG's have power pedestals and solar / portable generators for the boondocking crowd exist, you'll be hard put to find a manufacturer willing to take on the liability of gasoline appliances in a TT.
RE: Water filter - In-Line or Canister? & Watts Regulator
We use a Watts...they're reliable and flow better than most of the "bargain basement" types. We also use a whole house filter that I picked up at Wally World. It takes the standard household assortment of filters and I carry one of each and base the filter on the expected water at the site I'm in. I got the bracket that attaches to the side of the TT and it has a second bracket that allows me to "mount" the filter in the storage bay so that it doesn't roll around or leak all over the place. If I'm going from one site to another, I don't bother to drain it, just unmount it from the side of the trailer and mount it in the storage compartment.
As for keeping it out of direct sunlight... I don't worry too much about it. We tend to pick shady sites and use enough water that it doesn't sit long enough to grow anything. If I do find myself in a site that has strong sunlight for most of the day, I use a cover that my wife made out of blackout cloth that covers the whole setup quite nicely.
I have it set up similar to several others. Water faucet with T at the water stand, regulator, hose to inlet on filter and hose from outlet of filter to a shutoff valve, Y insert to allow for pressure relief, hose to city water inlet. If I need to fill the tank, I connect a fresh water adapter at the city inlet end of the hose. Everything gets filtered. I use quick connect hose fitting adapters on all joints. It all snaps together in just a few seconds. If I need unregulated, unfiltered water I can use the faucet with the T.
As you've seen, you can get pretty creative with the overall design. I got most of my parts from Wally World, the faucet with the T and the Watts regulator were from PPL. If you get quick connects; get the brass ones, not the plastic and you'll want to take a punch and hammer to them to knock the automatic water shutoff plungers out of them. If you don't knock them out, you won't be able to relieve the pressure and you'll wind up taking a shower ;)
RE: Can't find the perfect TT
I doubt that you will find any standard production RV with those specs in the length you want.
Two bedrooms in a 25' RV is pretty much un-doable due to space restrictions.
Have to agree... We looked at a bunch (read way too many) and never encountered anything remotely closely resembling what you are looking for, certainly not two queen beds in 25'. Then you want a bathroom, living room, kitchen and a dinette? Throw in a built in generator with fuel tank? IMHO, I would think it would be downright impossible, even in a one-of-a-kind custom. I don't think you could get all that in the "low profile" cubic feet you're looking for, not to mention, having a generator tucked under the bed with fuel tanks to boot...
Certainly wish you luck though:) As was mentioned, you will most certainly have to go custom and longer than 25'. If you go that route keep us posted, I'd be curious who could build it and what they'd want for it...certainly won't come cheap.
RE: What or who do you blame for the financial crisis?
Have to agree with portscanner...we have no one to blame but ourselves. I can't even get angry over the outsourcing... If my auto was 100% made in America, I wouldn't have been able to afford it. When unions strike until a broom pusher makes $20 an hour... When we knowingly elect officials that promise "more in the pot", less taxes, more services and don't look at how they are going to be paid for... When we like corporate raiders to come in because they'll make our stocks soar without stopping to think that the way they do it is to outsource, sell off manufacturing and cut employees.
Before anyone slaps me for the $20 broom pusher (or other downscale employees), I was an overpaid broom pusher in my day (for a national foodchain). I was overpaid and knew I was overpaid, but, certainly wasn't going to turn down what the union negotiated on my behalf (the company finally caved after an 8 month long strike).
After WWII, the male population was down, American industry was still rolling on a wartime footing, the rest of the world was in a shambles. We (the collective "we") could demand virtually anything we wanted from our native companies and we did. The companies could export to a ruined Europe and Mid and Far East and make up in volume for the exorbitant wages they were paying. Then came along the reconstruction of the rest of the world. They didn't pay their employees enormous wages, they didn't have to, as there were many more workers than there were jobs in the industries that were destroyed. They could make steel for less. They could pay their assembly line workers less.
We as a working country have gotten fat and lazy, expecting more and more income for less and less work. We don't enjoy life unless it has a lot of toys that, preferably, we got for a lot less than it's real value. We expect the Government now to take away from those that have in order to give to those that don't, even if they don't deserve it. We expect more, but, don't want to pay more. Heck, we don't want to pay anything at all - we can stay in a Wally World parking lot instead of coughing up $25-45 dollars at a campground.
Yes, I'm as guilty as the next guy, although I'm working on changing my habits and my lifestyle. Some of it conscious, some of it forced. I've for the last several elections not only looked at what is promised, but, how they are going to pay for it. You can't, for instance, promise universal health care and lower taxes for the middle class, somebody has to pay, and believe it or not, the "upper class" can't afford it, either. Companies? Sure you can raise their taxes...they'll just raise their prices. You can't get something for nothing and this country, the purported wealthiest in the world, is rich only in paper.
In the coming decades, we all are going to have to think more realistically about what we need vs. what would be great to have.
We are going to have to not only balance our own books, but, the government is going to have stop "giving" away unfunded entitlements.
As a smoker, my favorite, is the state government that raised the taxes on cigarettes to fund schools, good thinking, huh? Now that same government is in the red, partly because, the taxes worked so well that smoking is down and so are the tax revenues from smoking - now the school system is going belly up for lack of funding.
Yep, everytime I look in the mirror, I have my answer. We are our own worst enemy.
Sorry...got on my soapbox.
RE: My new leveling scheme
Wasn't implying that it was a bad idea, just much more complicated for me. I have the level mounted so I can see it in the mirror. I pull or back the trailer where I want it, just as you would, look in the mirror at the level and pull forward ~18" and tell the wife to throw x number of Lynx blocks on the ground. We can get it up and level in the same amount of time that getting the jacks out, placing them and jacking them up would take...jacks work for you...blocks work for us :-)
RE: FunFinder 24 ft w slide
I have the 210WBS...it has a single slide, but, isn't 24 ft. The 230DS is 24 ft (24' 7"), but, has two slides, so, I'm not real sure which one you are describing. Single slide 210WBS vs. the two in the 230DS. They may have the same engineering logic, so I'll describe where mine are. I believe you will find the tanks lined up under the trailer, fresh water tank is the white/translucent one with a drain petcock for it. My fresh water tank is right over the axles, 40 gallons.
In mine, the low point drains are located under a lift out panel (in mine) inside the grill storage bin next to the hot water heater. Mine is in the rear, but, on the 230DS, I would think it would be forward near the kitchen... Look around where the water heater is, mine are plumbed in just past the water heater bypass valves. They have metal pull rings; pull the rings up and they dump the lines. The other way you might find them is to look under the trailer...look for two pipe stubs that point down to the ground; those are the outlets for the low point drains and the valves will be right above them.
Maybe someone here actually has the 230DS and can chime in, if not, maybe this is enough information to get you started.
RE: My new leveling scheme
What LIKE2BUILD said...
Not to mention, all of my Lynx blocks (2 sets) don't weigh half of what a single bottle jack weighs :-)
RE: Tornado install
bumpy's right...the kit version comes with a backflow prevention device. Another way I eliminated the problem was to cable tie the hose as it comes off the tank up to the frame. Between the hose being angled up, the backflow preventer and the cap on the hose connection end, I've never noticed any infiltration into the hose on either of mine.
RE: Brake problem
A lot of times the controller won't work unless the trailer is attached... My P3, for instance, won't do anything (except light up) unless it senses the trailer's electrical load on the system. There are feedback provisions in a lot of the controllers. The brake circuit would be fried, so, there probably won't be any output on the brake wires to prevent damage to itself. The brake lights coming on are controlled by different circuit in the controller, so, they would light up, that part of the controller is just an on/off switch...
You'll need to hook the trailer up and then do your testing. A right royal PITA. That does at least tell you that there isn't a direct short between the blue and red wires, but, it doesn't tell you whether it is the brake controller (since you didn't have the trailer connected, it wasn't really "on") or not.
If the trailer brakes are locking full on, you'll want to do the testing in "spurts" when you hook the trailer up...they weren't designed to stay full power on for any length of time and you can damage the magnets if left full on for a long stretch of time.
The easiest test, right off the bat, is to get a towing buddy to swing by for a beer and hook the TT up to his 7 pin. If the fault is on your TV, it will work OK connected to his. If the fault is with the wiring on the TT, it will also be full on with his TV...
RE: hitches
The only way I could think it would be illegal, would be if you leased the vehicle with a factory hitch on it and then took it off prior to returning the vehicle at lease's end...
RE: Problem with furnace...
Since you can light the pilot by holding the over-ride in, the gas is getting there OK. You let go of the over-ride and it (the pilot) goes out? Sounds like the thermocouple. These gas furnaces have a device that "senses" the heat from the pilot to govern whether the furnace will let gas through to the main burner head...no pilot, no gas - shuts the main gas valve off so that you don't fill your TT or house up with gas. Sounds like that what is happening - it isn't sensing the heat from the pilot, so, as soon as you let go of the over-ride button, it kills the gas valve.
The thermocouples are replaceable - you'll need the model number for your furnace to get one, but, either your RV shop will have one or you can shop for one on the web at places like PPL or RVUpgrades, etc.
RE: Brake problem
The wire color for your magnet is an indicator of the application for the magnet...all magnets are not the same even though they may look like it. If you were to replace the magnet, you can just go down and buy a black wire magnet, or a red wire magnet, or a yellow wire magnet. Different weights (axle weights) and different backing plates call for different magnets that externally look the same, but, internally are different.
The magnet is a DC non directional device, doesn't matter what wire is + and what wire is -, you can hook them up either way. The current going either direction through the magnet activates the unit.
As for why they are "locked" when connected to your vehicle's connection...have you looked at your 1) house battery is it dead? 2) the reason I asked about the house battery - is it possible the breakaway pin is pulled from the socket or may be bad? If the brakeaway pin is out or the breakaway unit itself is shorted out, it would have locked the brakes until the battery went dead or it shorted itself out. Either scenario would result in the brakes going into the "locked" mode as soon as power (from your TV) was applied...
Just something to look at... :h
The breakaway pin is connected on the end of the thin wire and is located on the trailer tongue, could be either side, but, most of them that I've seen are on the curb side of the tongue. Consists of a pin that fits between two contacts and keeps the held open. Pull the pin (as when a trailer pops off the hitch) and the contacts close allowing full battery power to the TT brakes....
RE: What to expect when buying a RV
Almost everything nowadays is "extra", however, I do not consider filling the propane tanks and providing a battery, water hose and a 20 / 30 / 50 amp cord as being "extra" or "optional". If I had a dealer try that on me, I would ask him exactly how he planned to do the pre-delivery inspection (PDI). He can't fire up the gas reefer, hot water tank or furnace without propane being in the tanks and the system being charged to pressure. He also can't test and verify the various 12v systems without a house battery being installed. How is he going to test to my satisfaction the 120v AC system...or the water system? I wouldn't buy a car without a battery and full tank of gas either. If the dealer's profit margin is that tight or he hasn't already worked that price into his offer, you shouldn't want to do business with him. Mind you, one way or the other you're paying for them, but, they are things that you really shouldn't have to bicker over or ask for.
To my mind, a spare tire shouldn't be "optional", either, but, I am old enough to remember when heaters, outside mirrors, and shock absorbers were "options" when you bought a car... ;)
As has been mentioned, the "starter kit" is really throw away quality. It will get you through the first couple of trips, maybe.
That's actually how I look at what "should be included" in the purchase...whatever is necessary to drive off the lot and go straight to a CG and exist for a few days. The essentials - propane, electricity, water and some way to empty the tanks. There are other options that you really should have, but, a lot of them are personal preference and as such really are options, but, everybody needs propane, a battery (must have for breakaway brake controller, in fact I don't think they can sell you a TT without the battery if it has electric brakes(?), 120 volt electricity and water.
RE: SMALL TT FOR MY FOLKS
You didn't mention what kind of traveling they intend to do...makes a big difference in what they would like.
Most all of the under 20' TT are towable with an F-150. The biggest determining factor is what are they going to do once they get somewhere?
My wife and I just retired and we travel mostly to see the US and spend most of our time outdoors. We also don't like traveling in a truck (we use a Jeep Commander). The way we travel, we needed lots of outside storage for chairs, tables, grills, lights, etc. That eliminated most of the all fiberglass types (Casita, Oliver, etc.) Great TTs and would really like to have had one of the Olivers, but, alas, didn't have the features we wanted. We also wanted to be comfortable inside during rainy periods or when we get back dead tired from a hiking or sight-seeing. The FunFinder we got has a single slide with a nice sofa that opens up a lot of floor space and no dinette. We don't travel with grandkids, don't need bunks and we aren't comfortable "lounging" in a dinette. We eat outside, weather permitting and if it isn't we have television trays that store behind the couch for use inside. We also don't like climbing over each other to get in and out of bed...been there done that. The FunFinder has a walk around short Queen (short is fine - I'm the tallest at 5' 6"). There are many out there in the under 20' range that do... Our 210WBS is a 19' 2" box, 23' tongue to bumber and quite towable with the 150.
Guess, what I'm getting at is, I would first try to ascertain what you (they) want in the way of comforts and lifestyle and why they are going to travel; sightseeing, snowbirding, lots of time inside or lots of time outside, partying, group cookouts, traveling with kids or pets (we have three cats), etc. Once you determine the activities they'll most likely engage in; then find a TT to fit. It may be 20', it may turn out that they'll need 24'. The last thing you want to do is to pick a TT (or any RV for that matter) based on a lifestyle that should be in a 24' package and then try to stuff it into a 17' unit. Don't over buy, but, don't skimp either...that just leads to yard art that won't get used.
RE: flat screen televisions
I put a Samsung Series 6 22" in our TT. It lists the storage temperature range as -4 F for a low and 113 F for a high. Operating temperatures are 50 to 104 F. I believe the difference between the storage temp of -4 and the operating temp of 50 and up is to prevent condensation on the electronics should you try and watch the thing around the freezing mark...personally, if it is 32 F in the trailer, I won't be watching the television, I'll be trying to figure out why my heater isn't working :E
When I winterize, I pull it out and store it in the workshop, old habit. It would probably be ok in the TT, we get cold snaps that get into the negative degrees, but, they are "snaps" and usually don't hang around. During our "season", I just leave it in the TT...short duration "spikes" shouldn't pose a problem. If it is hotter than 113 outside, you'll find me parked at CG somewhere with the A/C on :B
RE: Thule Smart RV products
I mounted one of the pods in my shower enclosure...that's where the dirty clothes go. Works inside as well as outside. You'll want to be darn sure that you want the pod in the location you choose; once up, it is permanent.
RE: Thule Smart RV products
Been more than happy with ours. I put two of the "Pods" on the outside for their jumbo hooks - they are not only glued and screwed to the TT panel, but, there are two 3/8" protrusions on each end that actually take the brunt of the hanging weight. Very sturdy and as long as the weight limits are adhered to, I think they are quite durable.
I liked the outside mountings so well, that I installed another pod in the shower area at about shoulder height. I use their trash container as a dirty clothes hamper. We can chuck the dirty laundry in there, it is off the floor and when time to do the laundry, it lifts right off the pod for the trip to the washing machine.
Next spring, I plan on mounting their table to the side of the TT. One of those "why didn't I think of it" type things that will probably make Thule a fair amount of money...they aren't cheap, but, well worth the price in my book.
RE: LP Tank Cover
I have one that has a hinged access cover on it. Got real tired of having to take the whole cover assembly off everytime I wanted to turn the gas on or off...
Got mine at Camping World:
LP Tank Cover with top access to valves
Quite happy with mine and darn site less than those listed above :E
RE: 1 wire lights a bad idea?
Single wire lamps - good for use on sheet metal that is grounded to frame. Never in 41 years of auto / motocycle / boat / RV work ever had a properly installed light fail because of a bad ground connection from the attachment point.
Two wire lamps - necessary for installations where there is no chasis ground at the installation point, i.e., fiberglass panels, lighting masts on fiberglass / wood boats, insulated or isolated mounting points (some auto bumpers, for instance, are actually isolated from chasis ground.
If your TT originally had a two wire light, you may well find out that it was for a reason...i.e., your TT is fiberglass, or the mounting points themselves do not have a chasis ground. :W
RE: Weber Q Low-Pressure Conversion w/Pics
I have little folding aluminum slat table that fits the Weber Q120 (same size as the Baby Q, but, with side tables) and with a 10' hose, I've got enough slack that I use a velcro strap to hold the hose to one of the slats in the table...takes the stress off and, if somebody stumbles over the hose (me :S) the table and grill now have enough mass that I take the tumble and not the grill :B
